For the epicurean seeking the finer flavours, the Scottish Highlands is probably not a likely destination. But these wild and wonderful landscapes are peppered with culinary treasures – from world-class produce to whisky gold. One such gem lays nestled in the sleepy village of Grandtully – The Highland Chocolatier.
For the initiated, whisky and chocolate pairing is not a new concept. The often vanilla-led tell-tale tasting notes of a good Scotch pair remarkably well with the deep, dulcet tones of the cocoa bean. But when dealing in the realms of extremely rare and well-aged whiskies, finding the pairing partner that can stand up to – and better yet – elevate the tasting experience is another matter altogether.
For the award-winning Highland Chocolatier, Iain Burnett, this is something that he – and his highly skilled team – know all too well. “I grew up in the Scottish Hebrides,” said Iain, “My Dad brought me up to help in the kitchen and always used to use local Scottish ingredients with something a bit more exotic which inspires my methodology today.”
Although far from the western isles of Scotland, Grandtully, where the Highland Chocolatier is based now is similarly remote. But this has only developed Iain’s offering, “My mother is the perfectionist in the family which probably explains my constant drive for excellence. Where we are based in the Scottish Highlands has many benefits for a truffle specialist and with being able to work with producers right at the source, it means we don’t need to compromise on any of our ingredients. In my case, that’s an exceptionally fresh local non-blended cream with a rare non-blended cocoa.”
Indeed, it is this provenance of ingredients that has led to the plethora of prestigious awards and accolades of which the Highlander Chocolatier commands today. Iain comments, “The most exciting result of using local ingredients has to be the Velvet Truffle. Of all the dairies across the UK, the fresh cream we source from one herd of local Friesians has a major part to play in the taste and texture of our chocolates, not to mention having access to genuine heather honey.”
When pressed on the importance of ingredients, Iain shares his thoughts, “Really, the secret is simply spending a bit more money on the best ingredients I can find and investing a lot more time on natural processes to avoid the need for glucose, sorbitol, butterfat and things like that.”
Parallel Worlds
If this sense of commitment to only the finest of ingredients and an unwillingness to compromise feels familiar, it should come as no surprise that there are many parallels that can be drawn between whisky and chocolate-making. Master Chocolatier Iain Burnett and his team have been producing and refining their recipe for chocolate alongside whisky distilleries across the breadth of Scotland for many years, and with it found surprising similarities between the two.
“Like any craft, there are easier and more complex ways to work. Ingredients will always be critical, as will be the cost of time invested to hone the skills and improve the processes. Patience, an eye for detail and striving for excellence are all important aspects of mastering a craft.”
It is this attitude which has garnered Iain Burnett’s Highland Chocolatier acclaim – including over 60 national and international awards and an impressive roster of clientele – including royalty, Michelin star chefs and beyond. For aspiring chocolatiers, this pursuit for perfection is not for the feint of heart either. Much like whisky, literal years of development are required both by the professional and in the product itself. Notably, for the Highland Chocolatier’s signature Velvet Truffle – it took three years and 120 variations of the recipe to strike gold. Although in well-aged whisky making the wait could be considerably longer, this forward-looking focus commands a respect that is often underappreciated in a world of luxury goods.
On his pursuit, Iain said, “Wanting to learn is the driver of excellence. When working together with Michelin chefs, we are all on the shoulders of giants, and while you never truly reach perfection, the joy is in discovering how to make even the smallest incremental improvements in technique, flavour, or texture.”
This concept is readily found in whisky making – for almost a century, Hazelwood whisky makers have grafted under this same ambition – all in the pursuit of the same goal: improved mouthfeel, complexity, and depth – never aging whisky for the sake of it. And of course, it also comes down to methodology too – for whisky makers, this may be the choice to refrain from added colour or wood policy. For chocolatiers, it is not so different in Iain’s eyes, “What elevates a product and really makes it luxurious is the foundations of it. Removing the cheaper additives, for instance. Adding in more of flavourful cocoa. Working the ingredients skilfully to retain the flavours and create texture.”
Of course, much like Scotch Whisky, there is no shortage of chocolate to delve deep into. But is chocolate as objective as its whisky counterpart can be? Iain advises the discerning epicurean, that like with Scotch Whisky, it is important to pay attention to personal tastes. “Flavour and texture are personal and is important to your enjoyment. Don’t be swayed by brand names – they all have good products, but some weak ones too. To really seek out the best quality, you want to know the provenance. Although provenance does not necessarily guarantee “good” chocolate, it’s absence usually means there’s compromise. As a basic starting point, you want to avoid artificial flavourings, preservatives, sweeteners, added colouring. The rest is down to your palate.”
The parallels of using only the finest raw materials, the methods used, the provenance of the product and even how a discerning palate may appraise chocolate and whisky are striking. If the future of whisky is to assume custodianship so that the next generation may enjoy it, then what does it look like for chocolate? According to Iain, it is in preserving the craft, “Working as a chocolatier is like any other craft. The next years will be a real test – costs have already increased by 400% so far, and these costs are expected to double or even triple over the next few years until more crops can mature. Planning years into the future is very exciting though as those costs will come down a little and there will be more high-quality product on the cocoa market because the farmers at the heart of it will be getting paid more.”
Whisky and Chocolate – Recommendations of a Master Chocolatier
Pairing gourmet couverture chocolate and Scotch Whisky is an exciting journey of discovery for lovers of either. To celebrate this classic pairing of two worlds, we asked Iain Burnett to create a bespoke tasting flight, tailored to four of our rarest whiskies. Every truffle recommended has been paired for its merits in enhancing that experience, with some paired alongside more than one in a “vertical” flight through the layers of flavour that can be found in every glass.
When tasting, Iain recommends, “Smoky or roasted notes of cocoa, vanilla, fruit and spices or creaminess are found with the best malts and are also prevalent in the Velvet Truffles. A bad pairing will cheapen both, but a precise pairing combination heightens the experience and sheds extraordinary light on each – whisky vapours open up the palate to discover new characteristics of the Velvet Truffles and notes in the chocolate highlight or complement often unnoticed flavours in a fine Scotch.”
When sampling whisky and chocolate together, try following the Highland Chocolatier’s instructions.
- Nose the whisky with your mouth a little open to allow the full aroma to circulate.
- Immediately bite off a little of the Velvet Truffle and allow it to warm up in your mouth.
- Take time to enjoy the texture, initial, primary and after-tastes.
- When you nose the whisky the second time, notice which aromas and flavours now come to the fore.
- Finally take a sip of the whisky to compare the texture.
The Transatlantic and the Milk Velvet Truffle
Fresh Scottish cream is meticulously combined with caramel noted couverture to bring out not just the buttery popcorn notes of this Blended Grain Scotch Whisky, but also to match its creamy texture. Extend the experience by layering your tasting experience with a White Lime & Hint of Chilli Velvet Truffle to bring out the fresh wood and pencil shavings found within the whisky, as well as more swee t candy corn. Finally, linger on the remainder of your glass with a Pure Caramelised Ganache Velvet Truffle – this parting chocolate with emphasise the candied sweets and golden syrup waiting within.
The Long Marriage and the Assam Tea and Sweet Spice Velvet Truffle
Fresh cream from a single herd of Friesians is infused with sweet and warming spices to match not just the creamy texture of the whisky, but to entice out gentle spice notes and complement the rich fruitiness found in sherry casks. The flight continues with a Cinnamon and Clove Velvet Praline, celebrating a sweeter cinnamon expression and emphasising the paraffin character. This vertical flight finishes on the Orange and Hint-of-Clove Velvet Truffle to bring to the fore yet more fruit and subtle spice.
The Old Ways and the Dark Velvet Truffle
This famously rich dark chocolate ganache of fruity São Tomé Island provenance brings out the dark muscovado sugar and stewed fruit notes of this Single Grain Scotch Whisky. With the Raspberry and Black Pepper Velvet Truffle, the ripe rhubarb continues, emphasising the fruit coulis and interestingly, more of the oily wax-like character.
Queen of the Hebrides and the Lemongrass and Hint-of-Lime Velvet Praline
An unusual infusion of lemongrass and the hint of citrus in this gianduja of caramelised hazelnut creates an exceptional pairing with the exceptional qualities of the Queen of the Hebrides - yuzu citrus comes to the fore, with a background of maple syrup over bacon. We return to the spiced cocoa of São Tomé in the Dark Velvet Truffle to enhance the phenolic notes of charcoal, cigar smoke and toasted oak.
On the fading embers of the Queen of the Hebrides, we conclude our chocolate and whisky pairing. As we make our way through each pairing, the dedication of craftsmanship in both is apparent in the depth and complexity offered. When asked to describe what his craft meant to him, Iain replied,
“Honesty. Joy. Excellence.”
We could not have said it better ourselves.
